2022年6月23日(木曜日)
暗いうちに起きる。片瀬西浜海岸へ。
再び弁天橋を渡り島へ戻ろうと、あらためて江ノ島を眺める。昨日一度反対側の岩屋まで行った島は昨日初めて見た島とは違って見える。橋を渡ってすぐの左手には小さな緑地があり、噴水池の神々しい女性像を朝陽が優しく照らす。部屋に戻り、備え付けのネスプレッソ(ありがたや〜)でコーヒーを。
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まだ6時前。ゆっくりとまずは辺津宮へ。参道を上る。一番乗り参詣を目指したのに朝も早くからすでに参拝者、数チーム。見どころ多すぎてキョロキョロしながら上の方へ。辺津宮さまはまさに江島神社の顔、といった趣で堂々。奉安殿や末社、龍の池もあり広く開かれた感。
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中津宮はなんというか人懐っこい感じ。赤いお社も可愛らしく。人好きのする感じが人気商売のご利益につながるのか商人、芸人、庶民から武士まで広く信仰されて来たとのこと。創建は853年、その後綱吉が元禄2年(1689年)に再建したのが現在の社殿。歌舞伎役者さんの手形や植樹もあり、こぢんまりとしながらも華やかな雰囲気。社殿脇の小径を奥へ入ると水琴窟がある。筒から時折落ちる水が水盤の下にある琴線に触れなんとも幻想的な音が聴ける。名残惜しく感じつつ、順路をV字に戻るかんじで御岩屋道をたどり奥津宮を目指す。
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江ノ島は上から見ると瓢箪のようにくびれがあって(そこは「山ふたつ」という断崖の絶景なのだが)、奥津宮はその瓢箪のアタマの、小さい部分にある。道沿いにはお土産物屋さんやお食事処、普通の民家、寺院などもあり坂の連続、降りたり登ったりを繰り返し、フッと空気が変わったなと思うと森の中に奥津宮が現れる。ここの守り神は亀さん。手水の守りも龍から亀さんに変わる。拝殿天井の八方睨みの亀さんにもしっかり睨まれて、お隣の龍宮へ。江ノ島の突端、岩壁の荒波から亀と龍で島が守られているみたい。
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龍宮の斜向かいあたりに入り口のある龍野ヶ岡自然の森に入る。龍恋の鐘など。一人で来ても意味のないところだけど、まぁ一応、チェックねw けっこう鬱蒼とした森で雨上がりだったのもあり歩くのに少々難儀。
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さていよいよ、岩屋を目指す。昨日も訪れたのだが、あれは午後3時過ぎ、見物客も多くそのほとんどがカップルで、何かとイチャイチャ盛り上がっていてそれはそれでけっこうなことなんだけれどw(妬いてるわけじゃないのよw)神秘的な洞窟の静謐を心穏やかに味わいたい私にとってはちょっと不本意だったもんでリベンジにきた、というわけ。6時に瑞心門をくぐり、ゆっくりゆっくり3つのお宮を詣でゆっくりゆっくり歩いて来たけどまだ8時前w。岩屋開門の9時まで時間を潰さなくてはなのだ。岩場に降りて、波に近づく。歩くたびに足元から無数のフナムシが八方へ散るのわゾワゾワ眺めつつ。それでもまだあと1時間。。。岩屋橋にのんびり腰掛けて開場を待つ。それほど暑くもなく、曇り空でよかった。。。
(後編に続く